The Body: Part 1
Teatum Jones is a fashion label driven by a love of human stories… For AW17 Teatum Jones have looked at the story of our relationship with the human body. Looking at the work of Hans Bellmer, they stepped inside his ‘doll project’, which he created to oppose the fascism of the Nazi Party. Bellmer defiantly stood against the ideals of the new German state by composing mutated doll forms and unconventional poses that were a direct rejection of the cult of the seemingly perfect body, then prominent in Germany.
Teatum Jones’ objective is to explore and breakdown the idea of “us and them, them and us”… They have looked at the body objectively and deconstructed it without prejudice. They have championed the idea that something you traditionally and socially accept as ‘whole’ and seemingly ‘perfect’ can be deconstructed in unconventional ways and considered just as beautiful.
Shapes and silhouettes… the key signature shapes such as their statement oversized coats and column dresses, taking the seams apart and reconstructing them using contrasting sheer layers, eyeleted seams and strapped waistlines with extra long tapes. The results are bell sleeves that mask the wearers’ hands, oversized collars that exaggerate the neckline and optional hemlines that almost want to escape from within a garment. Many of the garments appear to simultaneously have two layers of skin.
They have explored the idea of optional tension, restriction and length, using gros-grain straps and industrial sized eyelets to allow the wearer to discover different volumes, tensions and lengths to work on their individual body shape.
Patterns, textures and fabrics are… Inspired by imperfect geometry. Rejecting the soft curves and round sockets of Bellmer’s doll silhouettes, Teatum Jones have moved instead towards awkward and imperfect squares. Imperfect and youthful marks are hand painted onto silk satin crepes and British heritage wools by British Artist Tom Leamon. They have encased woven wool checks behind a clear wall of PVC coating to protect the delicacy of fluffy mohair, adding a layer of waterproof skin and honest visibility. Partnering with Hawick courtesy of SR:D in Scotland, they have evolved key knitwear shapes to offer a unisex wardrobe of luxurious cashmere shapes with signature long sleeves. Cable jumpers and oversized cardigans that become dresses with off the shoulder carmen necklines.
Colour palette… Taking inspiration from their SS17 collection they have shared their palettes into three groups: The first a dark, somber group of wet, shiny midnight navy, innocent ivory and finishing’s in chrome silver and black tapes.
For this collection they have partnered with luxury British woollen mill ‘John Foster’ who have sponsored our wool suitings and coatings, taking inspiration from their archives in Black Dyke Mills in the heart of West Yorkshire. John Foster is an award winning company built on innovation.
For the shoes, Teatum Jones have partnered with Christian Louboutin and spectacles they have partnered with Cutler and Gross. Jewellery and hardware trims have been designed in collaboration with London based Brazilian Jewellery artist Nina De Marco.